This
article is about scratch-building an illuminated cockpit for the Revell kit F-4E
(1/32). I divided the full article into 4 installments, so I could go into some
details and describe them as closely as possible.
- Part
1: Building the front cockpit: design of the cockpit panels, adding lights.
- Part
2: Completing the front cockpit: the instrument panel, the HUD.
- Part
3: Building the rear cockpit: side console panels. Dry fit of the cockpit tub.
- Part
4: Completing the rear cockpit: the Instrument panel. Final details and
adjustments.
DESIGN
OF SIDE PANELS
I
wanted this project to capitalize on my experience acquired by building the A380
(1/144), fully illuminated with fiber optics (FO). The Phantom F-4E had to
receive the best possible cockpit, which meant building everything from scratch.
I had a 1/32 Revell model in my stash, which would just be fine for this
purpose. I decided to build a Hellenic Air Force (HAF) F-4E “Peace Icarus”,
featuring the latest Avionics Upgrade Program (AUP). This allowed me to build an
upgraded cockpit into the mighty Phantom, with all the bells and whistles
pertaining to modern fighters technology.
I
started the project by snapping together the kit’s original cockpit parts. A
little Blue Tack here and there helped to keep the parts together. I had two
Tamiya pilots in my spare box, so I sat them into the Revell cockpit.
From
this point on I started designing the cockpit side consoles and instrument
panels. I used a cheap 2D design computer program to draw various copies in
order to “right size” the new parts. I checked this by cutting the “blue
prints” and Blue-Tacking them onto the kit cockpit tub.
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The
front instrument panel was checked with the pilot sitting in the seat. Finally I
test-closed the cockpit side walls with all the new cardstock parts taped in
place. Note the green squares on the panels: these are the place where the Multi
Function Displays (MFD) would fit.
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How did
I design the panels? I used a mix of references: cockpit layouts from the
“Dash 1” (technical manual) and pictures from the actual AUP cockpit. The
design happened to be quite complicated, so I needed a more robust CAD program.
I learnt AutoCAD from scratch, which slowed down my progress pace quite a bit.
It took me 2-3 months to become familiar with the program’s extensive features
and draw the cockpit layouts. But the result was well worth the effort, as you
will see later on.
Below
is a copy of an original “Dash 1” layout, and two screen shots showing the
level of detail I could achieve on my design: realistic instruments, readable
stencils, etc Later in the articles I will show you that you can even check the
frequency settings on the COM / NAV panels.
My
workbench at that time of the project wasn’t covered with the usual
modeling tools. Instead there was a computer, scanner and plenty of space
covered with reference material.
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The
computer screen displays an excerpt of a front side panel. I printed the
design on my inkjet printer (Epson 890 Photo), on matte photo cardstock
paper. To check the accuracy of the printouts, I used various magnifying
glasses (8-10x). Of course music was a welcome companion during these
periods of highly concentrated brainwork.
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BUILDING
THE SIDE PANELS & ADDING LIGHT
I
started by drilling the holes through a copy of a side panel. The holes
would receive the FOs, plugged in from below, and trimmed to bring light
– where required - just under the printed side panel. Sort of
“back-light” paper panel. I wanted to illuminate instrument dials and
various control lamps.
You
can find more detailed information on this particular step in my articles
about the A380. |
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The
font cockpit, with its right hand side panel completed shows how the FOs run
from the underside of the panel to the light source, a regular white LED,
powered with a 9V battery. On the finished model, the power source will be
external, so I do not have to care about providing an access panel to change the
battery inside of the model.
The FOs
are glued with 2-component epoxy. It looks like an Alien nest, but the only one
who drooled over the cockpit is me. And I am my no way an Alien
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I
cut out each sub-panel and glued them individually over the FOs with Microscale
Crystal Clear. This provided a realistic 3D look and feel to the assembly. A dry
fit with the kit’s seat and Tamiya pilot shows that everything is progressing
well. Note that on the two pictures below, I still use the kit’s original
front instrument panel. It was soon to be changed for a better, custom-etched
brass panel.
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Adding
the switches and knobs was the natural next step. I made the switches with
short bits of soft wire, by pinching one end with pliers. In
addition to this step, the cockpit received some extra detailing of the
rear wall. I also added the “Data Case” box to the rear right side of
the cockpit. A little weathering and the “front office” started
looking right.
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THE
FRONT INSTRUMENT PANEL
It
was time to start the front instrument panel construction. Again I
designed it with AutoCAD, printed it on cardstock to have the various
sub-panels and instrument dial faces. The same design would serve as a
template to etch the panel.
To
make the etching easier I created several layers in my AutoCAD drawing,
one to carry only the main panel, others for the black sub-panels, and
others for the instruments themselves. So by hiding the unnecessary layers
I was able to print only the main instrument panel for the etch
process.
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On the
lightbox is the etching master, printed on a sheet of transparent foil. In the
background is the same print, with different layers activated, on cardstock. The
second photo shows the etched brass sheet against the cardstock print.
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I
cut out the various brass parts and folded them on a “Hold and Fold” tool.
On the tool is the front instrument panel. The last photo shows the pilot,
sitting in front of his brand-new brass instrument panel. His right hand is
supposed to hold the control stick, not a beer
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The
first steps in the construction of the scratch-built cockpit were completed at a
slow pace between September 2004 and January 2005.
The
next article will tell you how I populated the front instrument panel with
actually illuminated instruments.
Pierre
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