1/48 Academy SU-27 Flanker B

"Red14" Kilp-Yavr AB, Russian Federation

by E.J. DeVivo on July 30 2003

--------------------

 

Items used:

Click on images below to see larger images

Let me start by saying Guy from Linden Hill Imports is a great source of information for Russian aircraft and gets merchandise to you amazingly fast.  The cockpit set by NeoMega was an absolute gem to work with. No sanding or cutting whatsoever, just amazing crisp detail right out of the box. I really can't figure out why the other companies just don't make these tubs fit into the kits rather than having us sand, grind and get resin particles inside our lungs!  The set included the cockpit tub, front and side panels and K-36DM ejection seat.

It's the best one I've seen so far. The image I attached is of NeoMega's SU-27UB cockpit set, another flanker project of mine but it gives you the idea of what it looks like OOB. 

Click on image below to see larger image

I started by airbrushing the tub, front and side panels flanker blue by Model Master. I lightened it just a slight bit to contrast the knobs and switches. The LCD's and readouts were painted gloss black with a fine brush and I dabbed a drop of future on each readout when dried. The entire cockpit took about 5 days or so, putting in an hour here and there. 

Click on images below to see larger images

 

The cockpit attached to the underside of the top half with no effort at all. There is a lower rear portion that had to be sanded on an angle to allow the lower half to properly meet the top portion, this took all but 1 minute. 

 

Click on image below to see larger image

The Academy kit is great with the exception of the missiles. They aren't accurate at all. Their are a couple of companies that provide missiles for the Flanker and MiG aircraft but not to many. It's much easier getting weapons for our Tomcat or Strike Eagle. The kit really didn't require that much sanding at all. A few spots here and there but nothing major.

I really liked the way the kit is built where you have two large pieces, top and bottom. After sanding was complete, I airbrushed a coat of grey primer, waited a few days then  airbrushed the entire model Flanker blue. I deviated slightly from the standard flanker theme and added some gray to the aircraft, then went on to finish the camo in Flanker medium blue. It gets a little tricky here because the Model Masters Flanker Med. blue is to dark and it must be toned down. I mixed a little bit of gray-white with it and practiced on an older model. I did the tail fins as separate pieces and attached them at the very end. I'm glad I did it this way because the starboard fin needs some taping on the inside and out. 

Click on image below to see larger image

I used Yefim Gordons "Flankers The New Generation" for reference.  Good publication, it shows early prototypes and several different types of weapons that I've never seen before. Pretty cool book.  

Click on image below to see larger image

I used model master metalizer burnt metal for the engines and burnt iron for the exhaust nozzles. 

Click on image below to see larger image

 Work is needed on the front landing gear lights. The kit doesn't include anything, your on your own with this. Your provided with two flat pieces of plastic for the lens housing.  My man Doug Shey from Warrick Hobbies showed me a cool trick where you mix apoxy cement, drop it in the spot where you want and its like concrete within a few hours. Because its so thick, it lays just right and takes the form of a lens. I drilled out the plastic piece in a semi-circular sphere as told by Kaan Gok, painted the inside chrome silver then added the apoxy. Thanks to Doug & Kaan. 

Click on image below to see larger image

 I used Linden Hills Flankers on Patrol decals, and they were beautiful. A perfect set of directions in the form of a small packet accompanies these vivid decals.  

Weathering was kept to a minimum. I accented the panel lines with pastel chalk by mixing with water and a little dishwashing detergent. After painting was complete, I applied a clear coat over the model to prepare it for decaling and weathering. I brushed in all the panel lines, waited a half hour or so then wiped off the excess. It came out ok, but looked much to dirty. Would have looked awesome on an F-14 but not an SU-27. SO, I wiped off most of the weathering leaving just so much as to see some panel lines. I added some brush strokes to the wing and elevator flaps, and other areas where oil and fuel would blow off. 

Click on image below to see larger image

Click on images below to see larger images

Like most kits, there is a big seam running down the middle of the canopy that must be removed. I sanded it using an extra fine sanding stick. If any of you guys do this, don't panic after you see all the buff marks you put on that crystal clear canopy. I put a little polish on it and rubbed it for about five minutes or so and it looked great.

 This is my last project for a while. I live in South Florida and do this out of my garage. It is really hot down here now! Working in the garage in this heat and humidity really makes me want to live in an igloo.

 So I'll probably start up again in late Sept. or early Oct., whichever cools first. I have an F-14D, F-15E and SU27UB kits sitting in my closet
waiting.

Click on images below to see larger images

I hope you enjoyed this article, any questions please feel free to contact me.

E.J. 

Photos and text © by E.J. DeVivo