I
intended to build this kit straight and fast at first for my local competition
last year. No additional resin, PE, whatever, except seatbelts for the seat.
But, the word “fast” I previously planned was then no longer valid as the
scheme I chose almost made me given-up. After on and off and on and off again,
thank Thank-God; on again, finally I could finish it as my last finished
kit in 2004.
Regarding
the Hasegawa F-16, well, I don’t think you all want to read again. In a word,
this is still the best F-16 model in 1/48. And no, I don’t say a PERFECT F-16
kit in 1/48.
Why
choosing that scheme ?
Simply
because there is Bob’s statement in the instruction: “You think painting
this one is going to be though? Try drawing it. This one was painful….”.
Well, I don’t know why but my heart was going itchy after reading it.
I
think I don't need to write on the model construction and I believe you all want
to read about how I painted it, right? More precisely, how to do the
scheme.....
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Simple.
I up scaled the TwoBobs’ instruction using photocopier. I’m not good at math
so don’t ask me how much percentage I up scaled them. Trial and error, until
the copied-scheme exactly at the same size with the model. I cut the paper and
used it as masking paper. Photos on instruction clearly shown that the camo has
feathered edges so I belief I did the right way. When it came on the tough
corners or edges, here came the trusty Tamiya masking tape….
I
painted the light grey FS 36622 using lacquer-based Gunze paint and enamel-based
Model Master Green FS 34079. If something going wrong with the painting process,
I could easily rub the enamel paint using mineral spirit without damaging the
lacquer paint.
The
painting took me almost 6 month to completion. Mostly because losing patience
and of course, mood. Doing the camo which are “stand-alone” (didn’t going
through the title “marines” or serials or stencils) were quite fast. It took
me only 4 nights to do so but the speed dropped when the time doing the
positive-negative stencils/camo came.
As
suggested, I also made a copy of the decal sheet itself. Cut it (the copied, not
the decal!) and again, use it as camo masking after placed it on the right
position.
Well…
90% of my time was preparing the masks, the rest was spraying the paint. But, it
worth!
Small
note, some of the scheme instruction view are not “linked” each-other so
other references are better handy. I don’t and won’t blame Bob for these
mistakes as even drawing it was tough, very tough!
Using
the way I did, I can say that I did the camo 90% accurate (to Bob’s
instruction). Other story if the Bob’s camouflage-drawing was not accurate… J
(Sorry, Bob!)
“Futuring”,
decaling (what a great decal you did, Bob!), future again, oil wash, weathering,
flat coat… and, you can imagine how I feel when I brought this model to my
local club meeting, when eyes staring at it!
The
model missed the competition, so I replaced the seat with Verlinden’s one. It
gave quite an improvement to the cockpit. I also eliminated the seams of the
clear canopies, sanded them smooth and “futured” them.
Now,
I have to finish my TNI AU Viper…
Alex
Jakarta,
Indonesia
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