1/48 Hasegawa F-16N “Top Gun”

by Alex Sidharta

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I intended to build this kit straight and fast at first for my local competition last year. No additional resin, PE, whatever, except seatbelts for the seat. But, the word “fast” I previously planned was then no longer valid as the scheme I chose almost made me given-up. After on and off and on and off again, thank Thank-God; on again, finally I could finish it as my last finished kit in 2004.

 

Regarding the Hasegawa F-16, well, I don’t think you all want to read again. In a word, this is still the best F-16 model in 1/48. And no, I don’t say a PERFECT F-16 kit in 1/48.

 

Why choosing that scheme ?

Simply because there is Bob’s statement in the instruction: “You think painting this one is going to be though? Try drawing it. This one was painful….”. Well, I don’t know why but my heart was going itchy after reading it.

 

I think I don't need to write on the model construction and I believe you all want to read about how I painted it, right? More precisely, how to do the scheme.....

 

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Simple. I up scaled the TwoBobs’ instruction using photocopier. I’m not good at math so don’t ask me how much percentage I up scaled them. Trial and error, until the copied-scheme exactly at the same size with the model. I cut the paper and used it as masking paper. Photos on instruction clearly shown that the camo has feathered edges so I belief I did the right way. When it came on the tough corners or edges, here came the trusty Tamiya masking tape….

 

I painted the light grey FS 36622 using lacquer-based Gunze paint and enamel-based Model Master Green FS 34079. If something going wrong with the painting process, I could easily rub the enamel paint using mineral spirit without damaging the lacquer paint.

 

The painting took me almost 6 month to completion. Mostly because losing patience and of course, mood. Doing the camo which are “stand-alone” (didn’t going through the title “marines” or serials or stencils) were quite fast. It took me only 4 nights to do so but the speed dropped when the time doing the positive-negative stencils/camo came.

 

As suggested, I also made a copy of the decal sheet itself. Cut it (the copied, not the decal!) and again, use it as camo masking after placed it on the right position.

 

Well… 90% of my time was preparing the masks, the rest was spraying the paint. But, it worth!

Small note, some of the scheme instruction view are not “linked” each-other so other references are better handy. I don’t and won’t blame Bob for these mistakes as even drawing it was tough, very tough!

 

 

Using the way I did, I can say that I did the camo 90% accurate (to Bob’s instruction). Other story if the Bob’s camouflage-drawing was not accurate… J (Sorry, Bob!)

 

“Futuring”, decaling (what a great decal you did, Bob!), future again, oil wash, weathering, flat coat… and, you can imagine how I feel when I brought this model to my local club meeting, when eyes staring at it!

 

The model missed the competition, so I replaced the seat with Verlinden’s one. It gave quite an improvement to the cockpit. I also eliminated the seams of the clear canopies, sanded them smooth and “futured” them.

 

Now, I have to finish my TNI AU Viper…

 

Alex 

Jakarta, Indonesia

 

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Photos and text © by Alex Sidharta